Packing hundreds of curves along its 109-mile length, Pennsylvania Route 144 runs north-south and almost perfectly bisects the mountainous northern half of the Keystone State. Paved nearly a century ago to provide an automobile-friendly connector to lumber and railroad towns, the road now delivers a recreational paradise. Outdoor pursuits on or near PA 144 include hunting, fishing, river rafting, hiking, off-roading, and of course, fantastic driving.
From the southern terminus, the road begins just off I-80 in the mountaintop borough of Snow Shoe, population less than 700, where the Alleghenies start to rise. Within the first dozen miles, the route climbs to the Allegheny Plateau and enters the Pennsylvania Wilds, an area larger than the state of Connecticut.
The Wilds encompass some 25 percent of the state yet house only 4% of the people. Pennsylvania Route 144 passes by farms and runs through a dense forest of aromatic white pines and hardwoods before cresting on the high plateau region. The large-radius sweeping curves carved with generally excellent pavement cut through a less dense, sun-drenched area of pitch pine and scrub oak.
During two recent excursions, we saw abundant wildlife but not another human for miles. Pennsylvania Route 144 is the eastern arm of the state’s Elk Scenic Drive loop, so you might encounter a member of the largest elk herd in the Northeast. Or you might spot a bald eagle, as we did—they have made a healthy comeback.
About 30 miles from Snow Shoe, the road plunges down a canyon that follows Hall Run Creek. The curves are tight here, with tons of quick left-right transitions. This is where PA 144 is most like an amusement ride, hugging steep hillsides edged by steel guardrails. The descent lasts 6 glorious miles until the road deposits you on the southern bank of the West Branch Susquehanna River.
Stretching about 300 feet across, the mighty West Branch was once a superhighway for the harvested lumber that built East Coast cities in the early 19th century. Not long after the first steam locomotive arrived in the U.S. in 1829, the Philadelphia and Erie Railroad built a line that traversed the state along the northern bank of the West Branch. Driving over the bridge that crosses the Susquehanna brings us to Renovo, the largest town on Pennsylvania Route 144.
Dramatically ringed by mountains, Renovo was incorporated by the railroad in 1866 to service a massive central locomotive service yard that once included a roundhouse. This classic boom town’s population swelled to some 4000 in the early 20th century. It was about this time that the new automobile sparked the state to build Pennsylvania Route 144 and link the various towns and villages along the route. When less maintenance-intensive diesel locomotives replaced the steamies and the railroads consolidated maintenance yards, the town started a long decline. A mere 1000 people call it home today, and sadly, even a Family Dollar sits abandoned.
The hamlet is still a good breather stop and an interesting location for history buffs. Grab lunch at Socky’s Restaurant, which retains its vintage counter-type seating. Next door is the old Keystone Hotel, which wears a faded sign advertising “Rooms, Food, and Dancing” but is now mostly a popular cocktail bar. Peruse the grand churches and the lone standing brick workshop of the rail yard. But don’t hesitate long—there’s plenty of Pennsylvania Route 144 yet to explore.
The road ascends out of Renovo via switchbacks lined with northern hardwoods and wild rhododendrons. The air has a fresh, fecund feel. In “The River,” Bruce Springsteen sang about a struggling blue-collar couple who would “drive out of the valley/down to where the fields are green.” It’s a great soundtrack when you’re leaving Renovo, swinging through miles of curves and occasional farms yet seeing few other people.
The road ascends via switchbacks lined with northern hardwoods and wild rhododendrons.
Thirty-seven exhilarating miles and about an hour after Renovo, Pennsylvania Route 144 enters Germania. This small hamlet was settled by, you guessed it, German immigrants who were promised an area like their native Black Forest. The cluster of about a dozen buildings includes two well-kept churches and a cute general store with homemade chocolate whoopie pies. The old-growth hardwoods were logged out a century ago and now the town relies on tourists, many of whom explore the miles of former logging roads with ATVs. If you’re in the area this August, a raffle to benefit the Kettle Creek Music Festival and veterans offers a grand prize of “a canoe full of booze.”
A quick 7 miles north, Pennsylvania Route 144 ends at U.S. Route 6 in Galeton, where sawmills powered by Pine Creek processed the logs. History is never far away, as evidenced by the local Ace Hardware in an old tannery building, but Galeton’s tourism caters to stargazers, who come for the nearby Cherry Springs State Park. A designated Dark Sky park, Cherry Springs has so little light pollution that it’s one of the best places to view the solar system. Fitting, as Pennsylvania Route 144 is one of the best roads we’ve discovered east of the Mississippi , and proof there are still plenty of places to get lost right in our backyards.
On the Road
Pittsburgh, about 200 miles from Snow Shoe, is the closest major airport, but there are nonstop flights to State College, home to Penn State University, from Washington, Philadelphia, and Chicago. State College is only about a half-hour’s drive south of Snow Shoe and offers numerous hotels and inns.
For an authentic forest experience, book a room at the Gateway Lodge, a cozy log cabin built in 1934 and nestled in the heart of lush Cook Forest State Park. The Gateway includes a terrific restaurant and is roughly a two-hour drive from either State College or Pittsburgh.
Driving Pennsylvania Route 144 can take a few hours or an entire day, depending on stops. A fine day could start with a short stroll through the “Forest Cathedral,” a stand of old-growth hardwoods a few miles from Gateway Lodge. Or, if you start in Snow Shoe, at Galeton head 100 miles west on U.S. Route 6, itself a scenic byway, for a must-see visit to Drake Well.
In 1859, Edwin Drake sank a well along the bank of Oil Creek and discovered the first oil deposit. The ensuing oil rush spawned the modern petroleum industry. The museum has a reproduction of the original well. For us gearheads, it’s a mandatory visit. A full weekend would include exploring other rural roads. There are dozens. One thing is for sure: You will not be bored.
How Our Friends at Hagerty Pick The Road Of The Year: Although the selection process is entirely subjective, aka at the whims of this magazine’s editorial team, they do keep a few guidelines in mind. First, the road has to be no more than a one-day round trip from a major urban center, the thinking being that anyone should be able to access the route easily as a day excursion and while perhaps visiting this urban center for work or vacation. Also, the pavement has to be in good condition. Plus, it must have some reasonably close dining and lodging amenities, and there is a lean toward roads with outlets to other roads, such that they can be run in one direction rather than merely to a turnaround point.
This story originally appeared in print in the July/August issue of Hagerty Drivers Club magazine. Join the club to receive our award-winning magazine and enjoy insider access to automotive events, discounts, roadside assistance, and more
Karen Wirsig.
Coyotes are usually wary of humans and avoid people whenever possible. However, they are wild animals and should not be approached.
There’s a reason why Val d’Isere, at 1,850 meters, continues to be the top choice of European skiers each winter. It offers the perfect blend of challenging ski terrain for advanced skiers and learner-friendly beginners zones for those new to the snow. The resort center is lined with high-end shops, lively après-ski bars and fantastic restaurants, all housed within beautiful, stone-clad buildings.
The diversity on offer in Chamonix these days makes it impossible to review the whole resort as one destination. At 950 meters, Les Houches is one of the closest resorts to Geneva Airport and offers kilometer after kilometer of tree-lined skiing, making it the perfect destination for families and beginners. The resort center has a village feel and is an outstanding spot from which to take in the incredible views.
While the ski area between Klosters (at 1,179 meters) and Davos offers lots to explore, Klosters is without doubt the more attractive base for your ski holiday. The village center is charming and affluent, but with a relaxed vibe, while the trails are popular with advanced skiers enjoying an abundance of easily accessible off-piste in the area.
A resort that’s been quietly minding its own business for years, Les Gets, at 1,200 meters, is now developing into a chic, family-orientated resort that offers quick and easy access to the 650-kilometer Portes du Soleil ski area. Several piste-side restaurants offer views of Mont Blanc so it’s easy to find a sunny spot on which to enjoy an après tipple or two.
There’s one thing that makes these two interconnected resorts stand out, and it may not be for everyone. Crans, at 1,500 meters, and its neighbour Montana are not villages; although right on the edge of a great ski area, they’re most definitely towns with a very urban feel. This is a very sunny spot in which to base yourself and there’s varied terrain to suit all ability levels.
We love La Rosière, at 1,850 meters, not just because of its high elevation and snow certainty. The ski area offers two great experiences for the price of one when you cross over the Petit St Bernard pass into Italy. Wide pistes descend for kilometers into La Thuile over the border and getting back is no hassle at all. The main village is quiet but well stocked, and the views are exceptional.
Italian ski resorts are always authentic, traditional and charming, and Campiglio, at 1,550 meters, is no different. The car-free resort huddles on the valley floor and the center is stylish with several chic shops. The ski area spreads over 150 kilometers, and there have been several lift upgrades over recent years, making it quick and easy for you to cover a considerable distance on skis each day.
Rebranded way back in 2011 to recognize the differences between its more blingy neighbor higher up the valley, Courchevel 1650 is now an attractive, unpretentious resort with a stack of new facilities, including Aquamotion, a huge center for water sports that opened in December 2015. And let’s not forget: On your doorstep you’ll find the largest linked ski area in the world. The 600 kilometers of the 3 Valleys network never disappoint.
Seasoned skiers, this one’s for you. At 1,563 meters, Selva serves up challenging ski terrain on both sides of a valley, accessed by both gondolas and quick chair lifts. The village center is packed with charm and character and there’s also a collection of well-maintained beginner slopes and progressive tree-lined runs enjoyed by families.
No list of top 10 ski resorts is complete without mentioning Norway and the town of Geilo, at 800 meters. It is one of the country’s most popular resorts. It’s a small, well-equipped town that’s invested heavily in new runs, new lifts and new facilities. Between January and April you can also ski until 8pm on flood-lit slopes. Photo Credit: Geilo, Norway
It’s been 44 years since Save the Manatee Club was created by Jimmy Buffett, the renowned singer/songwriter, and former Florida Governor and U.S. Senator, Bob Graham, to raise public awareness about the threats to manatees and their aquatic habitat. With support from you, we can continue to make a big difference.
The manatee has been listed as an endangered species since 1966.
Buchanan has previously written to the Fish and Wildlife Service to emphasize that any push to weaken protections for the manatee would be “misguided and premature.” In 2014, following a three-year period in which 1,600 manatees died of cold weather or red tide, Buchanan called on FWS to maintain federal protections for manatees.
