Tag Archives: artisan

A Watch That Resets The Bar On Fantastic Watchmaking

COMPLEXITY MÉTIERS D’ART
Double Cônillon 12 / 6 o’clockThe art of the human hand in combination with mechanical spectacle.
WORLD PREMIERE: DOUBLE INCLINED TOURBILLON WITH DIFFERENTIAL Limited edition of 9 pieces
The hand elevates the mechanics.
“The Complexity is an extreme and spectacular mechanical sculpture, designed to be admired from every angle while magnifying the chronometry and absolute precision that define the very essence of this watch.”YVAN ARPA, FOUNDER OF ARTYA GENÈVE

COMPLEXITY

MÉTIERS D’ART

Double Cônillon 12 / 6 o’clock   ·  The art of the human hand in combination with mechanical spectacle.

WORLD PREMIERE: DOUBLE INCLINED TOURBILLON WITH DIFFERENTIAL

Limited edition of 9 pieces

MÉTIERS D’ART EDITION

The hand elevates the mechanics.

Unveiled as a world premiere at Watches & Wonders 2026, the Complexity established an architecture never before seen in the history of watchmaking: two inclined tourbillons, two Cônillons, positioned at 12 and 6 o’clock, coupled by a differential, within a case cut entirely from sapphire. ArtyA Genève now reveals its most accomplished interpretation: the Complexity Métiers d’Art.

The principle is radical: every surface of the movement and dial becomes the territory of an artisan. Engraving, hammering, shot blasting, perlage, bevelling: the great decorative techniques of haute horlogerie are executed by hand, component by component, and orchestrated to invert the codes of the original version. Where the Complexity played on the purity of fine sandblasting, the Métiers d’Art asserts relief, texture and light.

The same world premiere. The same exceptional calibre. An entirely new skin, born of the artisan’s gesture.

“The Complexity is an extreme and spectacular mechanical sculpture, designed to be admired from every angle while magnifying the chronometry and absolute precision that define the very essence of this watch.”

YVAN ARPA, FOUNDER OF ARTYA GENÈVE

COMPLEXITY MÉTIERS D’ART, TRANSPARENT SAPPHIRE CASE, HAND ENGRAVED GRIFFE DIAL

THE DIAL

Hand engraved, sculpted by light.

The dial of the Complexity Métiers d’Art is entirely hand engraved on a finely sandblasted base. From the centre radiate scratches carved with the burin, one by one, whose varying depth multiplies the texture: under the light, the surface comes alive with a spectacular play of brilliance, changing with every tilt of the wrist.

The applied indexes carry on the dialogue between tool and hand: bevels polished by hand, flanks drawn with the cabron buff, while their upper face remains sandblasted to melt into the dial base and steal nothing from the spectacle of the engraving. Every edge breaks the light with micrometric sharpness.

THE HAND ENGRAVED GRIFFE DIAL, BEFORE FINAL TREATMENT

THE MOVEMENT

An exceptional calibre, dressed by the métiers d’art.

The Complexity-01 calibre is a manufacture movement developed with Purtec Sàrl (Vallorbe), a specialist in innovative horological complications. Its 287 components and 44 jewels are the result of thousands of hours of engineering to resolve the challenges posed by the double inclined tourbillon: dynamic balance, energy transmission through the differential, precision maintained in every position. The inclined tourbillon of the Complexity follows in the lineage of Eric Coudray, father of the gyrotourbillon and one of the world’s foremost specialists in multi-axis mechanisms, while the Cônillon finds its historical origin in the research of Andrew Holden Potter around 1860. A technical legitimacy few manufactures can claim.

Exceptional Hand Craftmanship

Upon this exceptional base, every bridge and every surface receives decoration executed by hand, in a deliberate inversion of the textures of the original version: the upper surfaces are hand shot blasted, while the lower surfaces are covered with entirely manual hammering, creating maximum relief. Two decorations specific to this edition, transforming the movement into a landscape.

Every angle is bevelled and polished by hand; the flanks are finished with the cabron buff, true to the signature of the house. The recesses of the mainplate are hand perlaged to highlight the complexity of the differential, the beating heart of the double Cônillon architecture. The centre bridge, beneath which the differential reigns, is adorned with a polished moulding that further sharpens the view of this mechanism. A dedicated zone carries a numbered plate, entirely hand engraved, exclusive to this edition. The whole movement is black rhodium plated, a dark setting from which every hand polished surface emerges like a stroke of light.

DECORATION DETAILS

Component by component.

The decoration of the Complexity Métiers d’Art is documented piece by piece, in the manner of a workshop logbook. Each component carries its own combination of gestures:

COMPONENTHAND DECORATIONTREATMENT
MainplateHand perlage of the differential zone, flanks drawn with the cabron buff, laser engraving of the jewel countBlack rhodium
Minute train bridge (dial side)Fine sandblasting, hand engraved logo and scratches, hand bevellingBlack rhodium
Barrel bridgeHand hammering of lower surfaces, hand shot blasting of upper surfaces, hand bevelling and hand engraved logo, flanks drawn with the cabron buff, Swiss Made laser engravingBlack rhodium
Power reserve bridgeHand shot blasting, hand bevelling, laser engraving of the reserve scale and technical inscriptionsBlack rhodium
Differential bridgeHand hammering of lower surfaces, hand shot blasting of upper surfaces, hand bevellingBlack rhodium
Numbered “Complexity” plateHand engraving and bevelling, drawn strokesBlack rhodium
IndexesHand bevelling, flanks drawn with the cabron buff, fine sandblasted upper faceRhodium

Laser engraving is reserved for regulatory and technical inscriptions (Swiss Made, jewel count, power reserve scale): everything else is the work of the hand.

DECORATION AT THE BENCH, PIECE BY PIECE

THE ARCHITECTURE

Double Cônillon 12 / 6 o’clock. A world premiere.

In a classical tourbillon, the balance axis describes a cylinder. In the inclined tourbillon, the Cônillon, it travels a conical trajectory, compensating for the effects of gravity across several vertical positions simultaneously. The Complexity combines two of them, at 12 and 6 o’clock: a world premiere, in an unprecedented configuration in which none of the axes of the balance, the cage or the lever are parallel.

A differential distributes the barrel’s energy in perfect balance between the two regulators and performs a kinematic averaging of their rates: chronometric optimisation through 360 degrees, which neither tourbillon alone could achieve. Each cage completes its rotation in 30 seconds, in offset directions, offering a kaleidoscopic spectacle of rare intensity. Conceived within an architecture of remarkable robustness, this construction delivers shock resistance surpassing that of devices such as the gyrotourbillon.

The case, cut entirely from solid sapphire (more than 120 hours of diamond machining, 140 hours of polishing, a mastery possible only in Switzerland), wraps the movement in a triple-concave middle with domed flanks. Its two optical domes, at 12 and 6 o’clock, act as natural magnifiers over the cages in motion. Despite its high complication, its contained dimensions of 42 × 48 mm follow the curve of the wrist with remarkable comfort.

REMARKABLE WEARABILITY, DESPITE THE HIGH COMPLICATION

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Complexity Métiers d’Art

MOVEMENT
ComplicationDouble Cônillon 12 / 6 o’clock with differential, a world premiere
CalibreProprietary Complexity-01, developed with Purtec Sàrl (Vallorbe)
WindingManual
Frequency3 Hz, 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power reserve50 hours
Components287
Jewels44 (rubies)
Movement dimensions37.5 × 38.20 mm, height 14.10 mm (Cônillon at apex)
MÉTIERS D’ART FINISHING
Upper surfacesHand shot blasting
Lower surfacesEntirely hand hammered, maximum relief
BevellingHand bevelled and polished across the entire movement
FlanksDrawn with the cabron buff
MainplateHand perlaged recesses, highlighting the differential
Centre bridgePolished moulding opening the view onto the differential
Numbered plateHand engraved, exclusive to this edition
TreatmentBlack rhodium plating
DIAL
DialEntirely hand engraved on a finely sandblasted base
IndexesApplied: hand polished bevels, cabron drawn flanks, sandblasted upper face
CASE
MaterialSynthetic sapphire, transparent through 360°, cut from the solid block
FormTriple-concave middle, sapphire domes at 12 and 6 o’clock
Dimensions42 × 48 × 13 mm
CrownFaceted, cut from the crystal
MachiningMore than 120 hours of diamond machining, more than 140 hours of polishing
EDITION
Series9 numbered pieces
StrapIntegrated rubber, ArtyA folding clasp
PriceCHF 190,000 in sapphire, CHF 220,000 in pigeon blood ruby
AvailabilityBy order, ArtyA Genève and official retailers

ARTYA GENÈVE

Independent Haute Horlogerie, Geneva, Switzerland

www.artya.com

Press: info@artya.com   ·   +41 (0)22 752 49 40 Please mention The Silo when contacting.

For the Silo, Jarrod Barker.

War Rugs Are The Bomb

Another fab article from our friends at Kommandostore. Rugmaking has been such a long-standing tradition that historians typically say, “thousands of years”. In other words, it predates the British Monarchy, Roman Empire, and hell, even the Persian Empire’s conquest of Afghanistan. Unfortunately for just as long, the surprising beauty of her landscapes has been blood-stained. For example, many have attempted to invade Afghanistan, and many have died trying.  
From ancient Alexander the Great’s conquests to the United States “Operation Enduring Freedom” there sure have been a lot of wars, and a lot of rugs. But what began during Soviet occupation of Afghanistan in the USSR’s twilight years was quite odd indeed.  Propaganda rugs with anti-soviet figures like Ahmad Massoud* begun to circulate, and with the soviet occupiers taking great interest in these rugs as bring-back mementos, they got a taste of capitalism.*This guy’s story is a great subject for an email or video on it’s own, let us know if you’d like to see something like that. 
Massoud seen wearing his iconic combo of a Pakol cap, white checkered “shemagh” scarf and military-style jacket. On the right is one of the war rugs that depicts him — definitely one of our favorite designs we’ve been able to source.
In response to the newfound demand, artisans begun to introduce common sights of the battlefield onto their rugs: Kalashnikovs, Helicopters, BTRs & BRDM-2s, and of course plenty of tanks.  The soviet soldiers, naturally as young lads, couldn’t get enough of it. I mean, come on, who wouldn’t want a beautifully made rug with a tank on it? And so even through Russia’s Irish exit from Afghanistan, patterns were passed down and a whole new style was born: The War Rug. 
 A common misconception about the rugs that we’ve seen is that there’s any form of malice whatsoever from the rug-makers in making these. This is obviously & completely false. And we say that because once the American occupation began, rugs depicting the World Trade Center being hit by the highjacked airplanes began to circulate despite most Afghan people not even knowing what the event or it’s ramifications meant. You guys have certainly spoken the loud part quietly because the 9/11 rugs are our best sellers. We’re just listening to demand, don’t blame us. Skillfully as they do, the rugmakers themselves often have no idea what they’re weaving, they just follow the popular patterns circulating bazaars and embellish with whatever colors, extra elements, and often hilarious mis-woven English words they want. 
Other common (and less controversial) sights include the Opium poppy, American operations like the battle of Tora Bora, and now even the war in Ukraine.  What began as a memento and accidentally controversial form of art has truly blossomed into a celebrated slice of Afghanistan’s culture since the 80s. And luckily, even with increasing popularity, all the rugs are still handmade the way they should be. It’s probably hard to shake a tradition that predates your Grandma’s Grandma’s Grandma’s Grandma’s Grandma’s history book entries after all. 
Browse The Library 📚 and pick out your awesomeness via our friends at Kommando.

New York’s Behno Label Celebs Spring with purist forms

Proving sustainability is anything but basic!


Spring has sprung! These eye-popping colors from Behno are exactly what your outfit needs this season. Their unique silhouettes and vibrant colorways are sure to leave a lasting impression. 
VIEW LOOKBOOK HERE
New York–based clothing and handbag label behno was born from a desire to improve the way the fashion industry approaches manufacturing. Shivam Punjya, its founder and creative director, established the company to champion both top-tier craftsmanship and India’s garment workers—the majority of whom are women and can make less than a dollar a day.

To that end, the brand laid out its philosophy in “The behno Standard,” a set of six operating tenets dedicated to advancing the livelihood of its artisans.

At its factories, each female colleague is addressed by the surname behn (“sister” in Hindi), symbolizing the sisterhood of empowered employees the brand strives to create. behno’s aesthetic is one of pared-down elegance: Strong silhouettes, elegant lines, and purist forms highlight each carefully made object. From slick handbags to standout separates, each piece is at once beautiful and timeless.

ArtyA “Lion’s Head Timepiece” Combines Classical Engraving With Sculptured Figures

During the medieval Gothic period, depictions of lions were important talismans. A knight wearing a lion’s head on his breastplate or his shield channeled the power and dominance of the King of the Jungle. That’s why Yvan Arpa, CEO of Artya, was looking for the right combination of elements for his new Lion’s Head Tourbillon timepiece, and he found it when he met Bram Ramon.

Born in Flanders, Belgium, Ramon is a sculptor and engraver. A few years ago, ArtyA introduced the Brabant Tourbillon and the Arabesque Tourbillon, and a couple of years later Arpa and Ramon debuted the Lion’s Head Tourbillon.

Inspired by the neo–‐renaissance style and the armed knights of medieval times, Arpa and Ramon came up with a brand new way of engraving that combines deep chiseling with sculpture, and the result is incredible.

Ramon’s specialty is combining classical engraving with sculptured figures. As an example, the Lion’s Head at 12 o’clock is so powerful it appears to be leaping off the face of the watch, especially with its eyes of 24 ct gold.

This had never been done before in a watch, and Artya dared to pair this with one of watchmaking’s most traditional complications, the flying tourbillon. The Lion’s Head exudes power, a touch of Gothic spirit, a hint of religion and an artisan’s excellence.

Just looking at the Lion’s Head is captivating, as the eye is drawn to the mixture of grooves, crevasses and sculpted figures. And the tourbillon complication at six o’clock finishes off this exceptional, unique piece.

“I love working with Bram,” says Arpa. “We had such fun the first two times around, with the Tourbillon Arabesque and the Brabant Tourbillon, I couldn’t wait to get another project going with him. I love this piece so much –‐–‐ I don’t really want to sell it.”

Design Features:

–‐Dial and bezel entirely Hand–‐engraved with 24cts gold inlays following a 19th century style: the “Neo–‐Renaissance” style only made by a master engraver

–‐ Relief Engraving technique

–‐ Lateral insert in black PVD steel

Technical Specifications:

Dial & Bezel in High–‐grade 316L steel with 24cts gold inlays

Case: 44mm

Exclusive ArtyA flying tourbillon

manual winding

19 Jewels

Exhibition Back

Two anti–‐reflective sapphire crystals, front and back Hours, minutes, seconds

Frequency: 21,600 vph

Power reserve: 100 hrs

Genuine Crocodile strap

Unique Piece   1/1

Price: 180,000 CHF