oil change

It’s not all 9,000-RPM test drives; our friend at Rennlist has just finished breaking down the top 10 headaches at the Porsche dealership and the one reason why you will keep coming back.

Well, hate might be a little strong, but I can see why people would dislike going to the Porsche dealer. I have listed 10 reasons that in my personal experience and in talking to others in the community why the thought of going to the Porsche dealership is akin to a visit to the dentist’s chair. But there is one reason above all that I, and all of you keep coming back. Let’s discuss.

The truth is that I don’t hate going to the Porsche dealer. I have been going to Porsche dealers since I was a teenager. I have bought and sold many cars at a Porsche dealership. I go there for grand openings, new model reveals, Porsche Club of America membership meetings, cars and coffee events and more. I was just at a local dealership last night for a few hours. I have made plenty of friends at Porsche dealerships in my area. And it is not just me that enjoys the experience. In the most recent J.D. Power 2026 U.S. Customer Service Index (CSI) Study, Porsche ranks highest in satisfaction with dealer service among premium brands. It is the second consecutive year that they earned that distinction. So, why all the hate?

#1 Dislike – Playing the Allocation Game

After struggling for years and driving a beat-up Chrysler Sebring Convertible, your Pet Rock business takes off and you are now flush with cash. You want to replace that old convertible with the new 911 GT3 S/C. You head to the Porsche dealer excited to finally be in a position to buy your dream car. You burst through the dealership doors full of anticipation for speccing and ordering your new Porsche. You grab the first salesperson you see and tell them that you would like to order a new GT3 S/C. And they reply with “Yeah, you and everyone else buddy. How about we test drive this former service loaner Macan we have over here?” Having to be a dealership favorite with a long history of purchases to get a whiff of any of the desirable sports car models is one of the worst things about the modern Porsche dealership experience.

#2 Dislike – Talking About Added Dealer Markups

Let’s pretend for a moment that by some miracle, the dealership does have an available allocation for the GT3 S/C. That is only hurdle number one. Next, it is time to talk about how much money the dealership is going to drain from your account for the mere privilege of placing an order on your behalf. This added dealer markup is not small potatoes either. In some cases, it can go into the six-figure range. Some folks happily pay this, but personally, I hate the practice of dealer markups.

#3 Dislike – The Price for Service

OK, you got your allocation and you swallowed your pride and forked over the cash for the ADM. You have been enjoying your car for a while, and it is time for a service. If you have not serviced a Porsche at a dealership before, you might want to sit down before you get the invoice. Service pricing at a dealership can be a real eye-opener to say the least. Do they fly your car to Mars to change the oil? How the heck can it be so much when you can buy a 5-quart jug (that is about 4.73 L for my Canadian friends) of the recommended synthetic Mobil 1 at Walmart for less than 30 bucks? Paying dealership prices for parts and service can get painful very quickly.

#4 Dislike – The Lack of Technical Knowledge

This will vary on a case-by-case basis, as I have dealt with some very knowledgeable Porsche sales professionals. That being said, I am sure some of you have experienced talking to a Porsche salesperson and realized that you know far more about the vehicles on the showroom floor than they do. You expect them to be experts in the field, and many are. But when you encounter that one that tries to convince you that they can order you a new Carrera T with a PDK, it is uncomfortable for everyone.

#5 Dislike – Intimidating Atmosphere

As I said earlier, I have been going to Porsche dealers since I was a teenager, so I have pretty much always felt comfortable there, but that is not the case for everyone. For those new to the brand, walking through those Porsche dealership doors can be incredibly intimidating. No one is intimidated going in the local Honda store, but Porsche is on a different level. Is there a dress code? Will they run my credit before offering me a cup of coffee? No matter how friendly the dealership actually is, it can still be a bit like being on the set of Fear Factor for those that have not had much Porsche shopping experience.

#6 Dislike – Test Drives Aren’t Guaranteed

This can vary wildly from dealer to dealer and person to person. But there is a chance that getting a test drive might prove to be harder than you think. Although, to be fair, you have to have realistic expectations as well. If you are a 16-year-old kid pulling up in a ratty old Nissan Altima and ask to test drive the pre-owned 918 Spyder they have in stock, you should expect some questions. But sometimes dealers can be wary of offering test drives on just regular core models if they don’t know you.

#7 Dislike – Feeling Judged

And that is when you might feel judged. Even if you aren’t being judged, the mere fact that you are in a Porsche dealership may make you wonder if folks are evaluating you and your intentions just by looking at you. Are you wearing a pair of Hermès Bouncing sneakers and a Rolex Daytona, or a pair of Skechers Slip-ins and a Casio A158WA-1? Does it matter? It shouldn’t, and maybe it doesn’t and you will be treated with the same respect no matter what. But walking into a luxury dealership like Porsche can make you feel like you don’t measure up to others in there with you. Personally, I don’t give a crap, but I know some that are bothered by this.

#8 Dislike – The Urge to Upgrade

You are perfectly happy with your Porsche. It has been everything you dreamed it would be. Then you pop into the Porsche dealer for service or to pick up your twentieth Porsche t-shirt. And that is when you spot it, the 911 GT3 Touring that you have been dreaming of. It is just sitting there looking for a new home. You don’t need it. But you WANT it. You start doing the mathematical gymnastics in your mind. Little Jimmy probably won’t want to go to college anyway. And Ramen noodles aren’t that bad. The next thing you know, they are appraising your car, and you are trying to figure out what piece of jewelry you are going to need to buy your wife after you tell her what you just did.

#9 Dislike – Spoils You for Other Dealers

Porsche dealers are a nice place to spend some time. The atmosphere and amenities are far above your typical car dealership. A couple of years ago I was shopping for a car for my wife. We started at the Porsche dealership, looking at Macans. Naturally, she loved it, but we wanted to look at other options, so we went to the Toyota dealership to look at a 4Runner. Word of advice, do not ever go directly from a Porsche dealer to a Toyota dealer. Talk about culture shock. Not that the Toyota dealership was bad, but when you get used to the Porsche vibe, you get spoiled.

#10 Dislike – Driving Leads to Buying

I tell my non-Porsche owning friends this all the time. Do not test drive a Porsche unless you are ready to buy a Porsche. Once you get behind the wheel, you will be hooked. Climbing back into your old car will feel like a gut punch. A Porsche test drive can wreck your budget if you are not prepared to buy the car.

For the Silo, Joe Kucinski.

The trees are almost bare and the evening arrives sooner each day. We all know what that means: It’s time to tuck away our classics into storage.

Just when you thought you’d heard every suggestion and clever tip for properly storing your classic automobile, along comes another recommendation—or two, or three or twelve 😉

As you can imagine, I’ve heard plenty of ideas and advice about winter storage over the years. Some of those annual recommendations are repeated here. And some have been amended—for example, the fragrance of dryer sheets is way more pleasing to noses than the stench of moth balls, and the fresh smell actually does a superior job of repelling mice.

Wash and wax

It may seem fruitless to wash the car when it is about to be put away for months, but it is an easy step that shouldn’t be overlooked. Water stains or bird droppings left on the car can permanently damage the paint. Make sure to clean the wheels and undersides of the fenders to get rid of mud, grease and tar. For added protection, give the car a coat of wax and treat any interior leather with a good conditioner.

Car cover

Even if your classic is stored in a garage in semi-stable temperatures and protected from the elements, a car cover will keep any spills or dust off of the paint. It can also protect from scratches while moving objects around the parked car.

Checking oil 1960 plymouth fury — *Sabrina Hyde*

If you will be storing the vehicle for longer than 30 days, consider getting the oil changed. Used engine oil has contaminants that could damage the engine or lead to sludge buildup. (And if your transmission fluid is due for a change, do it now too. When spring rolls around, you’ll be happy you did.)

Fuel tank

Before any extended storage period, remember to fill the gas tank to prevent moisture from accumulating inside the fuel tank and to keep the seals from drying out. You should also pour in fuel stabilizer to prevent buildup and protect the engine from gum, varnish, and rust. This is especially critical in modern gasoline blended with ethanol, which gums up more easily. The fuel stabilizer will prevent the gas from deteriorating for up to 12 months.

Radiator

This is another area where fresh fluids will help prevent contaminants from slowly wearing down engine parts. If it’s time to flush the radiator fluid, doing it before winter storage is a good idea. Whether or not you put in new antifreeze, check your freezing point with a hydrometer or test strips to make sure you’re good for the lowest of winter temperatures.

Battery

An unattended battery will slowly lose its charge and eventually go bad, resulting in having to purchase a new battery in the spring. The easiest, low-tech solution is to disconnect the battery cables—the negative (ground) first, then the positive. You’ll likely lose any stereo presets, time, and other settings. If you want to keep those settings and ensure that your battery starts the moment you return, purchase a trickle charger. This device hooks up to your car battery on one end, then plugs into a wall outlet on the other and delivers just enough electrical power to keep the battery topped up. Warning: Do not use a trickle charger if you’re storing your car off property. In rare cases they’ve been known to spark a fire.

Parking brake

For general driving use it is a good idea to use the parking brake, but don’t do it when you leave a car in storage long term; if the brake pads make contact with the rotors for an extended period of time, they could fuse together. Instead of risking your emergency brake, purchase a tire chock or two to prevent the car from moving.

Tire care

If a vehicle is left stationary for too long, the tires could develop flat spots from the weight of the vehicle pressing down on the tires’ treads. This occurs at a faster rate in colder temperatures, especially with high-performance or low-profile tires, and in severe cases a flat spot becomes a permanent part of the tire, causing a need for replacement. If your car will be in storage for more than 30 days, consider taking off the wheels and placing the car on jack stands at all four corners. With that said, some argue that this procedure isn’t good for the suspension, and there’s always this consideration: If there’s a fire, you have no way to save your car.

If you don’t want to go through the hassle of jack stands, overinflate your tires slightly (2–5 pounds) to account for any air loss while it hibernates, and make sure the tires are on plywood, not in direct contact with the floor.

Repel rodents

A solid garage will keep your car dry and relatively warm, conditions that can also attract unwanted rodents during the cold winter months. There are plenty of places in your car for critters to hide and even more things for them to destroy. Prevent them from entering your car by covering any gaps where a mouse could enter, such as the exhaust pipe or an air intake; steel wool works well for this. Next, spread scented dryer sheets or Irish Spring soap shavings inside the car and moth balls around the perimeter of the vehicle. For a more proactive approach and if you’re the killing type, you can also lay down a few mouse traps (although you’ll need to check them regularly for casualties).

Maintain insurance

In order to save money, you might be tempted to cancel your auto insurance when your vehicle is in storage. Bad idea. If you remove coverage completely, you’ll be on your own if there’s a fire, the weight of snow collapses the roof, or your car is stolen. If you have classic car insurance, the policy covers a full year and takes winter storage into account in your annual premium.

“An ex-Ferrari race mechanic (Le Mans three times) recommends adding half a cup of automatic transmission fluid to the fuel tank before topping up, and then running the engine for 10 minutes. This applies ONLY to carburetor cars. The oil coats the fuel tank, lines and carb bowls and helps avoid corrosion. It will easily burn off when you restart the car.”
A warning regarding car covers: “The only time I covered was years ago when stored in the shop side of my machine shed. No heat that year and the condensation from the concrete caused rust on my bumpers where the cover was tight. The next year I had it in the dirt floor shed and the mice used the cover ties as rope ladders to get in.”
“I use the right amount of Camguard in the oil to protect the engine from rust. It’s good stuff.”
“Your car’s biggest villain is rust, that’s why I clean the car inside and out, and wax it prior to putting it in storage. For extra protection, I generously wax the bumpers and other chrome surfaces, but I do not buff out the wax. Mildew can form on the interior; to prevent this I treat the vinyl, plastic, and rubber surfaces with a product such as Armor All.
“Ideally, your car should be stored in a clean, dry garage. I prepare the floor of the storage area by laying down a layer of plastic drop cloth, followed by cardboard. The plastic drop cloth and cardboard act as a barrier to keep the moisture that is in the ground from seeping through the cement floor and attacking the underside of my car.”
“Fog out the engine. I do this once the car is parked where it is to be stored for the winter, and while it is still warm from its trip. Remove the air cleaner and spray engine fogging oil into the carburetor with the engine running at a high idle. Once I see smoke coming out of the exhaust, I shut off the engine and replace the air cleaner. Fogging out the engine coats many of the internal engine surfaces, as well as the inside of the exhaust with a coating of oil designed to prevent rust formation.”

Relax, rest, and be patient

Ford Model a roadster in garage — *Gabe Augustine*

For those of us who live in cold weather provinces or states, there’s actually a great sense of relief when you finally complete your winter prep and all of your summer toys are safely put to bed before the snow flies. Relax; you’ve properly protected your classic. It won’t be long before the snow is waist-high and you’re longing for summer—and that long wait may be the most difficult part of the entire storage process. Practice patience and find something auto-related to capture your attention and bide your time. You’ll be cruising again before you know it. (Keep telling yourself that, anyway.) For the Silo, Rob Siegel/Hagerty.

The Silo

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Great Tips For Winter Storing Your Classic