Tag Archives: Kyle Smith

7 Tools Hiding In Plain Sight On Most Workbenches

Let’s face it you still misplace your tools from time to time don’t you?

Tools have a habit of disappearing in many shops. Set one down and look away for a moment, and poof! it jumps into an alternate dimension. That happens enough to be a trope, but finding new tools in your shop? Now that’s a wild concept. Could every day be new tool day in your garage? If you know where to look, you’ll probably find these seven.

Funnels

makeshift funnel 1
This was one made for some special task, but I have continued to use it because it’s handy. Kyle Smith

Something that is cheap, plentiful, and all of us have a few of that we can never find when we need them. Or worse, are never clean when we need them. Pouring oils and other chemicals can be messy and annoying at best and dangerous at worst, but funnels help keep the liquids flowing where we want them.

And when looking around your shop, a whole host of items are only one sharp blade away from being perfect funnels: Empty oil containers are the prime example. Cut a quart oil container in half, turn it upside down, and suddenly there is a funnel. Empty soda bottles are a great one to consider while on a road trip.

Breaker Bar Extension

breaker bar exstension jack handle 1
Real luxury with the padded handle. Kyle Smith

Sometimes we just need a little extra oomph to get a stuck lugnut or suspension bolt broken loose, and while battery impact wrenches are getting smaller than ever, there is still a time and a place for an old-school breaker bar. And when the two-foot breaker bar still doesn’t have the leverage? Well, make it longer.

There are a few prime things to grab for this, which are often hovering around in a home shop. The handle of a hydraulic jack is often right nearby, but an old metal fence post or other off-cut of tubing is perfect. Be aware though, extending the handle of a breaker bar can create a lot of force for a little effort, so be careful and maybe even prepared for the head of the breaker bar to fail. Don’t put force on the handle in a way that would harm you should it let go. Of course, if you are at this stage, don’t forget penetrating oil and heat as helpers on your stuck-hardware journey.

Light-Duty Jack Extension

wood supporting transmission
A good chunk of 4 x 4 fencepost can be helpful in supporting things a jack can’t reach. Kyle Smith

Floor jacks give us garage-dwellers superhuman strength to pick up and place our rusting hulks on safe stands for work. Sometimes these same jacks are called in to help support items during a repair or maintenance process. Supporting a transmission or lfting a control arm to release the spring pressure from a ball joint are prime examples.

In these instances, it can sometimes be a balancing act to get the car at the right height for the jack to actually reach and provide assistance. For these situations, there is a simpler solution: the good ol’ chunk of wood. Of course, this is something to be used carefully and specifically, and, as always, you should never get below something supported only by a jack. For the example above, the engine is still in its mounts but this block of wood keeps the whole thing from tipping back; the jack alone wouldn’t have reached high enough.

Small Lathe

lathe drill 1
Kyle Smith

For anyone who reaches a certain level of DIY, the capabilities of a lathe can unlock a kind of superpower. Few of us have the shop space or power required to install a lathe, though, and thus miss out on most of the benefits that come from having a machine to spin parts and pieces. However, you likely have a tiny lathe on your workbench and don’t even realize it: a drill.

Most corded or battery-powered drills have a three-jaw chuck that can hold up to a 1/2-inch round item. This can be useful for cleaning hardware quickly and easily. Chuck small round parts like caliper slide pins in a drill and turn them slowly, giving a perfect even finish when combined with an abrasive pad or polishing compound.

Drain Pans

KTM front master swap 10
Free, and easy to drain. Kyle Smith

Much like the funnels above, drain or catch pans can be anything—assuming they are well placed. Large sheet drip pans are great for catching the small drops that happen while parked between drives, but smaller catch containers are nice when doing work, and in my shop one that gets heavy use is a coolant jug with the side cut out. This leaves the lid for easy pouring when full, and I have almost a gallon of capacity. This is perfect for draining a differential or a motorcycle crankcase.

Wrench Extender

double wrench trick 3
Leverage is always your friend. Kyle Smith

Sometimes all that fits on the bolt you need to get out is a wrench, and while there are some of us who multiple copies of each wrench in various lengths, others have the one set in hand and nothing else. Although a jack handle can be used here as seen in example 2 above, it can be tough to get a pipe that fits over the end of larger wrench sizes or that works well on smaller ones. Instead, look in the same wrench drawer rather than elsewhere.

Grab an open-end wrench a few sizes bigger than the one needed and combine the two to make plenty of leverage. Hooking the two wrenches together does take a little staring and thinking to get right sometimes, but in the end this is often a great solution.

Painting Hangers

home built paint booth Kyle Smith 4
Kyle Smith

Whether it’s putting a fresh coat of paint on an old part being restored or putting a more durable coat of matching paint on a new part going onto an old car, spraying paint is a common DIY task, and anyone who has done enough of it is familiar with the overspray on fingers and hands that often comes with trying to hold something while spraying. Instead, grab lanyards or wire coat hangers to enable trouble-free suspension of parts, not only for cleaner and more even paint coverage (not to mention cleaner fingers), but also for easy drying.

For the Silo, Kyle Smith/ Hagerty.

5 Tips for Regularly Driving Your Vintage Car

Summer, and thus driving season, is currently in full swing for much of Canada. Most of us that have them are trying to drive our classics every chance we get. Here are some vital reminders to heed if your vintage ride gets called up into everyday action.

Where I live is currently in the beautiful pocket of time where the mornings are cool yet bright and the sun only really gets hot in the middle of the afternoon. All of my cars love this weather, and I love driving just that little bit more. So I’m trying to drive as much as I can, and if you are doing the same, here are a handful of reminders for the times your vintage ride gets called up into more routine service.

Before we dive in though, it’s worth mentioning that old cars were once new cars. Someone drove and treated my Chevrolet Corvair the way I currently behave while behind the wheel of my wife’s Jeep Renegade—a daily driver. Traffic 30, 40, or even 90 years ago was radically different than traffic today, and many of our common-sense habits have shifted meaning to the point that what makes total sense for you in your old car will look insane to a common road user. While old cars require an additional amount of care and attention to be used regularly, driving your car is the best thing you can do for it. Don’t be scared of using the car exactly how it was intended.

Old cars have old brakes

Model A cast brakes
Fresh wheel bearings and drums made for a big improvement in drivability and safety on my Model A Ford.Kyle Smith

It’s easy to get lured into driving like those around you, but be careful. Without notice, you’ll find yourself tailgating at the same distance as the modern cars, and when that line of cars taps the brakes, suddenly the concept of 5-mph bumpers doesn’t seem so comical.

Vintage brakes can be made to work very well with a bit of care and attention, but even I have to admit vintage designs and materials just cannot compare to modern brakes—that is before even mentioning driver assist systems like anti-lock braking or emergency braking. Give yourself plenty of room.

Check your fluids often

Triumph spitfire hood up
Kyle Smith

Modern cars have spoiled us with the ability to drive thousands of miles without opening the hood. Regardless of how you feel about the separation between driver and mechanic over time, driving your vintage car on more than just a couple weekends a month requires staying on top of topping of fluids.

Old engines can and often do consume oil at a rate much higher than modern engines. Add in even just a small leak and suddenly the bottom of the dipstick is bone dry and before long, so is the oil pickup. Engine oil also helps cool an engine, so keeping oil topped up helps for multiple reasons beyond just proper lubrication. Also keep an eye on brake fluid and coolant.

Get used to the gauges

Modern car gauges are “normalized,” meaning that they often will be basically stationary while driving despite slight fluctuation in the pressures, temperatures, and levels they monitor. On older cars, a coolant temp gauge might rise slightly when caught at a long stoplight, but it might not actually be a cause for concern. Most automotive engines operate best when coolant temps are between 180 and 210 degrees Fahrenheit. Modern gauges will be stationary for that entire range, but an old-school mechanical gauge will transmit everything. This means coolant temp could drop slightly when you turn on the heater, or increase some with long periods of idling or while an air conditioner is cycling.

Make your escape plans

Traffic on the IH-10 Katy Freeway viewed facing west near Loop 610
Smiley N. Pool/Houston Chronicle/Getty Images

Even in great condition, aging cars can and do break down. Think through what common failures might occur with your car and formulate a plan for how you will handle the situation. This can mean packing a tool kit, re-upping your roadside assistance membership, or choosing routes and times of day that will help ensure you have a smooth trip. Some vintage cars will have zero trouble in modern traffic, but if yours tends to overheat or get cranky sitting still, make sure that you scout an escape route, should you get snarled in traffic. Being stuck on the side of the road is infinitely better than being stuck in the middle of the road. Trust me. There are a few roads around town that I avoid in my vintage cars due to the lack of shoulder or safe place to veer off. Paranoid? Maybe a little, but I don’t want to get hit while sitting on the side of the road.

Be aware of your tires

Classic Car Tires Ganz Alfa Romeo
Andrew Ganz

Modern tires are downright amazing and often go underappreciated. Since vintage cars get less mileage than their modern counterparts, a lot more people are willing to drive on older or poor-condition tires, sometimes out of pure ignorance or from lack of inspection. Tread depth and age are big considerations, but if you’re running modern reproductions of older tire designs, there is also the way those tires handle water. Siping and water control have a huge impact on handling and braking. You might have brand-new tires, but if the design is 50 years old, they are going to handle that way. Again, not a bad thing, but something to adjust to. For the Silo, Kyle Smith.

9 Old Automotive Tools Almost Nobody Uses Anymore

If you have them should you keep them? Read on via this interesting article from our friends at Hagerty.

The nuts and bolts that make up our beloved automobiles have not changed that much over the last 150 years. But the tools needed to maintain them? Those have changed a lot. Software has cemented itself as part of a service technician’s day-to-day regimen, relegating a handful of tools to the history books. (Or, perhaps, to niche shops or private garages that keep many aging cars alive and on the road.)

How many of these now-obsolete tools do you have in your garage? More to the point, which are you still regularly using?

Spark-plug gap tool

Though spark-plug gap tools can still be found in the “impulse buy” section of your favorite parts store, these have been all but eliminated from regular use by the growing popularity of iridium and platinum plugs. These rare-earth metals are extremely resistant to degradation but, when it comes time to set the proper gap between the ground strap and electrode, they are very delicate. That’s why the factory sets the gap when the plug is produced.

These modern plugs often work well in older engines, meaning that gapping plugs is left for luddites—those who like doing things the old way just because. Nothing wrong with that; but don’t be surprised if dedicated plug-gapping tools fade from common usage fairly quickly.

Verdict: Keep. Takes up no real space. 

Dwell meter

Snap On dwell meter
sodor/eBay

50 years ago, a tuneup of an engine centered on the ignition system. The breaker points are critical to a properly functioning ignition system, and timing how long those points are closed (the “dwell”) determines how much charge is built up in the ignition coil and thus discharged through the spark plug. Poorly timed ignition discharge is wasted energy, but points-based ignition systems disappeared from factory floors decades ago, and drop-in electronic ignition setups have never been more reliable (or polarizing—but we’ll leave that verdict up to you.)

Setting the point gap properly is usually enough to keep an engine running well, and modern multifunction timing lights can include a dwell meter for those who really need it. A dedicated dwell meter is an outdated tool for a modern mechanic, and thus most of the vintage ones are left to estate sales and online auction sites.

Verdict: Toss once it stops working. Modern versions are affordable and multifunctional. 

Distributor wrench

Snap on distributor wrench set
Snap On tools

When mechanics did a lot of regular timing adjustments and tuning, a purposely bent distributor wrench made their lives much easier. However, much like ignition points, distributors have all but disappeared. Thanks to coil-on-plug ignition systems and computer-controlled timing, the distributor is little more than a messenger: It simply tells the computer where the engine is at in its rotation.

Timing adjustments have become so uncommon that a job-specific tool is likely a waste of space. If you’ve got room in your tool chest, keep yours around; but know that a standard box-end wrench can usually get the job done and is only fractionally less convenient than the specialized version.

Verdict: Keep if you have them. No need to buy if you don’t. 

Pre-OBDII diagnostic scan tools

Prior to the required standardization of on-board diagnostic computers by the U.S. in 1996, a single car could host a wild mix of analog and digital diagnostic methods. OBDII, which stands for On-Board Diagnostic II, wasn’t the first time that a small computer was used to pull information from the vehicle via an electronic connection; it merely standardized the language.

Throughout the 1980s and early 1990s each OEM had its own version of a scan tool. Now those tools can be reverse-engineered and functionally spoofed by a modern computer, allowing access to diagnostic info tools that, at the time, were only available to dealers. Since many pre-OBDII cars are now treated as classics or antiques and driven far less frequently, the need for period-correct diagnostic tools is dropping.

Verdict: Keep. These will only get harder to find with time, and working versions will be even rarer. 

Distributor machine

A distributor is simple in concept. Trying to balance the performance and economy of the ignition system, with the distributor attached to a running engine, and achieving proper operation starts to get pretty complicated. That’s where a distributor machine comes in.

A distributor is attached to the apparatus and spun at engine speed by an electric motor. This allows you to literally see how the points are opening and closing. You can also evaluate the function of vacuum or mechanical advance systems. These machines are still great but the frequency that this service is needed these days is few and far between, especially when trying to justify keeping a large tool around and properly calibrated.

Verdict: Keep, if you are a specialty shop or tool collector. 

Engine analyzer

Sun Master Motor Tester
ajpperant

Even a casual enthusiast can see there is a lot more information that can be gleaned from a running engine than whatever readouts might be on the dash. Enter the engine analyzer, a rolling cabinet of sensors and processors designed to fill in the data gaps between everything that is happening in a car and what its gauges report.

An engine analyzer is essentially a handful of additional instruments packaged into a small box hanging around the bottom of your tool drawers. It can also house a lot of sensors in a giant cabinet, which was likely wheeled into the corner of the shop in 1989 and left to gather dust. Now engine analyzers can be found listed online for as cheap as $200usd/ $287cad.

The funny thing is that many of the sensors in these engine analyzers are often the same systems that come built into modern dynamometer tuning systems. In a dyno, the sensors allow the operator to see more than max power; they also show how changes to an engine’s tune affect emissions. Maybe engine analyzers didn’t disappear so much as change clothes.

Verdict: Toss. The opportunity cost of the space these take up can be tough for most home garages. Sensors went out of calibration decades ago so the information you might get from one is dubious at best. 

Most pneumatic tools (for home shops)

Ingersoll Rand air impact
Ingersoll Rand

Air tools hold an odd place in the hearts of many gearheads. For many years the high-pitched zizzzz and chugging hammers of air-driven die grinders and impact drills were the marks of a pro. Or, at least, of someone who decided that plumbing high-pressure air lines around the shop was easier than installing outlets and maintaining corded tools. Air tools are fantastic for heavy use, as they are much easier to maintain and can be rebuilt and serviced.

Those tools can really suffer in lack of use, though, since pneumatic tools rely on seals and valves, neither of which deal well with dry storage. Battery tools have caught up to air tools for most DIY folk. No more air lines or compressors taking up space in the shop—and requiring additional maintenance—and, in return, a similarly sized yet more agile tool.

Verdict: Keep, if you already have the compressor. Don’t have one? Invest in battery tools. 

Babbitt bearing molds/machining jigs

Every engine rebuild has to have bearings made for it in some fashion. Today’s cars use insert bearings that are mass-produced to surgical tolerances for a multitude of applications. If you wanted—or more accurately needed—new bearings in your Model T circa 1920, you needed to produce your own … in place … inside the engine. Welcome to Babbitt bearings.

The process is a true art form, from the setup of the jigs to the chemistry of pouring molten metal and machining the resulting orbs to actually fit the crankshaft and connecting rods. Now there are newly cast blocks for your T that replace the Babbitt with insert bearings. Since those antique Ford engines just don’t get abused the way they used to, and lead fairly pampered lives, they need rebuilding far less often than they did in-period. Modern oils also do a better job of protecting these delicate bearings. Since they are less and less in demand, the tooling and knowledge to make Babbitt bearings are difficult to find, and precious when you do.

Verdict: Keep. It’s literally critical to keeping a generation of cars alive. 

Split-rim tire tools

split rim tool ad
Universal Rim Tool Company

Among the realm of scary-looking tools that have earned their infamy, split-rim tools hold court. The concept is simple: The rim is sectioned, allowing it to contort into a slight spiral that can be “screwed” into a tire. (This is almost the reverse of a modern tire machine, which stretches the tire around a solid wheel rim.) When tires needed tubes, both tire and rim were relatively fragile, and the roads were rough, split rims were popular—and for good reason. Now the tooling for drop-center wheels is ubiquitous and shops often won’t take on split-rim work. Success is hard to guarantee, even if techs are familiar with split rims—and they rarely are.

Verdict: Keep. No substitute for the right tools with this job. 

These tools might not make much sense in a dealership technician’s work bay, but that doesn’t mean they should disappear forever. Knowing how to service antiquated technology is as important as ever, whether using old tools or new ones. If you’ve got any of these items, consider it your responsibility to document what the tool does and how to safely use it. Keeping alive the knowledge of where our modern tools came from is powerful.

For the Silo, Kyle Smith.