Packing hundreds of curves along its 109-mile length, Pennsylvania Route 144 runs north-south and almost perfectly bisects the mountainous northern half of the Keystone State. Paved nearly a century ago to provide an automobile-friendly connector to lumber and railroad towns, the road now delivers a recreational paradise. Outdoor pursuits on or near PA 144 include hunting, fishing, river rafting, hiking, off-roading, and of course, fantastic driving.
From the southern terminus, the road begins just off I-80 in the mountaintop borough of Snow Shoe, population less than 700, where the Alleghenies start to rise. Within the first dozen miles, the route climbs to the Allegheny Plateau and enters the Pennsylvania Wilds, an area larger than the state of Connecticut.
The Wilds encompass some 25 percent of the state yet house only 4% of the people. Pennsylvania Route 144 passes by farms and runs through a dense forest of aromatic white pines and hardwoods before cresting on the high plateau region. The large-radius sweeping curves carved with generally excellent pavement cut through a less dense, sun-drenched area of pitch pine and scrub oak.
During two recent excursions, we saw abundant wildlife but not another human for miles. Pennsylvania Route 144 is the eastern arm of the state’s Elk Scenic Drive loop, so you might encounter a member of the largest elk herd in the Northeast. Or you might spot a bald eagle, as we did—they have made a healthy comeback.
About 30 miles from Snow Shoe, the road plunges down a canyon that follows Hall Run Creek. The curves are tight here, with tons of quick left-right transitions. This is where PA 144 is most like an amusement ride, hugging steep hillsides edged by steel guardrails. The descent lasts 6 glorious miles until the road deposits you on the southern bank of the West Branch Susquehanna River.
Stretching about 300 feet across, the mighty West Branch was once a superhighway for the harvested lumber that built East Coast cities in the early 19th century. Not long after the first steam locomotive arrived in the U.S. in 1829, the Philadelphia and Erie Railroad built a line that traversed the state along the northern bank of the West Branch. Driving over the bridge that crosses the Susquehanna brings us to Renovo, the largest town on Pennsylvania Route 144.
Dramatically ringed by mountains, Renovo was incorporated by the railroad in 1866 to service a massive central locomotive service yard that once included a roundhouse. This classic boom town’s population swelled to some 4000 in the early 20th century. It was about this time that the new automobile sparked the state to build Pennsylvania Route 144 and link the various towns and villages along the route. When less maintenance-intensive diesel locomotives replaced the steamies and the railroads consolidated maintenance yards, the town started a long decline. A mere 1000 people call it home today, and sadly, even a Family Dollar sits abandoned.
The hamlet is still a good breather stop and an interesting location for history buffs. Grab lunch at Socky’s Restaurant, which retains its vintage counter-type seating. Next door is the old Keystone Hotel, which wears a faded sign advertising “Rooms, Food, and Dancing” but is now mostly a popular cocktail bar. Peruse the grand churches and the lone standing brick workshop of the rail yard. But don’t hesitate long—there’s plenty of Pennsylvania Route 144 yet to explore.
The road ascends out of Renovo via switchbacks lined with northern hardwoods and wild rhododendrons. The air has a fresh, fecund feel. In “The River,” Bruce Springsteen sang about a struggling blue-collar couple who would “drive out of the valley/down to where the fields are green.” It’s a great soundtrack when you’re leaving Renovo, swinging through miles of curves and occasional farms yet seeing few other people.
The road ascends via switchbacks lined with northern hardwoods and wild rhododendrons.
Thirty-seven exhilarating miles and about an hour after Renovo, Pennsylvania Route 144 enters Germania. This small hamlet was settled by, you guessed it, German immigrants who were promised an area like their native Black Forest. The cluster of about a dozen buildings includes two well-kept churches and a cute general store with homemade chocolate whoopie pies. The old-growth hardwoods were logged out a century ago and now the town relies on tourists, many of whom explore the miles of former logging roads with ATVs. If you’re in the area this August, a raffle to benefit the Kettle Creek Music Festival and veterans offers a grand prize of “a canoe full of booze.”
A quick 7 miles north, Pennsylvania Route 144 ends at U.S. Route 6 in Galeton, where sawmills powered by Pine Creek processed the logs. History is never far away, as evidenced by the local Ace Hardware in an old tannery building, but Galeton’s tourism caters to stargazers, who come for the nearby Cherry Springs State Park. A designated Dark Sky park, Cherry Springs has so little light pollution that it’s one of the best places to view the solar system. Fitting, as Pennsylvania Route 144 is one of the best roads we’ve discovered east of the Mississippi , and proof there are still plenty of places to get lost right in our backyards.
On the Road
Pittsburgh, about 200 miles from Snow Shoe, is the closest major airport, but there are nonstop flights to State College, home to Penn State University, from Washington, Philadelphia, and Chicago. State College is only about a half-hour’s drive south of Snow Shoe and offers numerous hotels and inns.
For an authentic forest experience, book a room at the Gateway Lodge, a cozy log cabin built in 1934 and nestled in the heart of lush Cook Forest State Park. The Gateway includes a terrific restaurant and is roughly a two-hour drive from either State College or Pittsburgh.
Driving Pennsylvania Route 144 can take a few hours or an entire day, depending on stops. A fine day could start with a short stroll through the “Forest Cathedral,” a stand of old-growth hardwoods a few miles from Gateway Lodge. Or, if you start in Snow Shoe, at Galeton head 100 miles west on U.S. Route 6, itself a scenic byway, for a must-see visit to Drake Well.
In 1859, Edwin Drake sank a well along the bank of Oil Creek and discovered the first oil deposit. The ensuing oil rush spawned the modern petroleum industry. The museum has a reproduction of the original well. For us gearheads, it’s a mandatory visit. A full weekend would include exploring other rural roads. There are dozens. One thing is for sure: You will not be bored.
How Our Friends at Hagerty Pick The Road Of The Year: Although the selection process is entirely subjective, aka at the whims of this magazine’s editorial team, they do keep a few guidelines in mind. First, the road has to be no more than a one-day round trip from a major urban center, the thinking being that anyone should be able to access the route easily as a day excursion and while perhaps visiting this urban center for work or vacation. Also, the pavement has to be in good condition. Plus, it must have some reasonably close dining and lodging amenities, and there is a lean toward roads with outlets to other roads, such that they can be run in one direction rather than merely to a turnaround point.
This story originally appeared in print in the July/August issue of Hagerty Drivers Club magazine. Join the club to receive our award-winning magazine and enjoy insider access to automotive events, discounts, roadside assistance, and more